If you know me, you’ll know I’m not really one for trends. My go-to outfit has been a black A-line skirt and heels since college, and I don’t leave the house without a swipe of black liner or sunscreen. That said, I’d have to be hiding under a rock not to notice Glam Glow Tingling & Exfoliating Mud Mask ($69.00 MSRP; $38.00 Amazon.com). With a significant concentration of kaolin, the all-over Glam Glow Tingling & Exfoliating Mud Mask could make blackheads appear slightly less noticeable, while the pumice in the product helped to exfoliate the skin simultaneously.
Now Glam Glow has debuted its new Glam Glow Brightmud Eye Treatment Mask ($69.00, Sephora.com). According to the company, the product is designed to “minimize puffiness, dark circles, and fine lines while brightening and hydrating the eyes”.
Caffeine
Glam Glow Brightmud Eye Treatment Mask contains pure caffeine, as well as green tea and coffee powders that are also prominent sources of caffeine. In skin care products, caffeine works on skin in the three primary ways:
- as an antioxidant (fighting future signs of aging)
- a diuretic (making the skin temporarily appear smoother)
- a vasoconstrictor (may help to reduce puffiness and dark circles caused by vasodilation)
As far as antioxidants go, caffeine is not the strongest. One measure of antioxidant strength, the Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC) score, is not significant for caffeine itself (Caffeine and Activation Theory, 2006). However, green tea and coffee both have high ORAC scores, and both are found in Glam Glow Brightmud Eye Treatment Mask, so this is one time in which I will say that a product claiming caffeine is a great source of antioxidants.
Diuretic and vasoconstrictor effects generally only last 4-6 hours, and these effects are even more minor in topical treatments than orally-ingested drugs. That said, you may wish to apply Glam Glow Brightmud Eye Treatment Mask an hour or so before a big presentation, date, etc.
Cyclotetrapeptide-24
Despite its name as a “peptide,” cyclotetrapeptide-24 is only classified as an “antioxidant” chemically (INCI Directory, 2013). Also found in certain Clarisonic cleansers, cyclotetrapeptide-24 has not yet been shown in any independent, peer-reviewed scientific studies I could find to have the firming activity of either palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 (Dermatologic Therapy) or palmitoyl oligopeptide (Dermatologic Therapy) or the anti-inflammatory activity of palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (Clinics in Dermatology).Â
Some experts also believe that peptides have no benefit for the skin at all, like Dr. Leslie Baumann, author of The Skin Type Solution. Dr. Baumann firmly believes that peptides are too large to fit inside the skin, and she is skeptical that they can stimulate collagen production at all. Myself, I would be wary of spending extra for anything that says “peptide” without independent, peer-reviewed scientific research backing it.
Will it work for you?
You will need to do a test to determine if your dark circles are caused by blood pooling (which this product will help with) or hyperpigmentation (which, as far as I can tell, it will not). Go in front of a mirror and hold down on your dark circle with your forefinger for 3-5 seconds. When you lift up your finger, if you temporarily see your dark circle lighten, then “fill up” with darkness again, your dark circles are from excess blood pooling. Because Glam Glow Brightmud Eye Treatment Mask contains a vasoconstrictor, you will get relief. On the other hand, when you lift up your finger, if you see no difference in the shade of your skin, your dark circles are from hyperpigmentation and agents with kojic acid, azelaic acid, vitamin C, and hydroquinone may benefit you more than this product.
Bottom Line
Glam Glow Brightmud Eye Treatment Mask is a decent temporary fix for dark circles caused by vasodilation (blood pooling in the area) and for eye puffiness. I would recommend it for anyone with mild dark circles and/or puffiness, and only then as a temporary fix. Unlike bleaching agents that can actually reduce tyrosinase activity in the skin (and hence pigmentation), the temporary constriction of blood vessels with Glam Glow Brightmud Eye Treatment Mask is not likely to improve the area over time. That said, it’s a great product before a big date or presentation – just don’t use it long-term and expect to turn the years back!
New FutureDerm Rating: ** (two out of four stars)
Old FutureDerm Rating: 6/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 2/3. Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3. Value for the money: 1/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
Ingredients
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Propylene Glycol, Bentonite, Carbomer, Biosaccharide gum-1, Cyclotetrapeptide-24 Aminocyclohexane Carboxylate, Ectoin, Ilex Paraguariensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Fruit Powder, Paullinia Cupana (Guarana) Seed Powder, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Ilex Aquifolium (Holly) Leaf Extract, Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Powder, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf, Troxerutin, Lecithin, Sorbitol, Dihydroxymethylchromone, Alcohol, Caffeine, Siloxanetriol Alginate, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Limonene, Linalool.