I don’t know about you where you are, but here in Pittsburgh, the winter months can be frigid. (Today, for instance, is a high of 26°F, with a low of 21°F. With snow. Brrr.)
But thankfully, there are some great products out there that will help maintain skin’s moisture levels, even when there is a subzero wind chill. To recommend products from a greater assortment of brands than usual, I consulted with Pamela Campbell, an aesthetician and the owner of Marco Diva Boutique in Marco Island, Florida.
1.) Best Facial Mask: Bel Mondo Beauty Ultra Hydrating Sheet Mask ($45.00, BelMondoBeauty.com)
Bel Mondo Beauty Ultra Hydrating Facial Sheet Masks are designed with an amazing assortment of proven hydrators including hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, ceramides, olive oil, and rice extract.
Each has its own advantages. Hyaluronic acid can bind water up to 1000 times its volume (Baumann). However, sodium hyaluronate has greater stability than hyaluronic acid, keeping it active in the skin longer (Kewpie). Sodium hyaluronate also works at both high and low humidity. (Baumann). Studies also affirm sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are awesome. In fact, a 2000 study by Sakai et. al found that a decrease in these agents (and similar ones) in the skin leads to surface roughness, flaking, fine lines, and a tight, uncomfortable feeling.
Ceramides are natural hydrators found within the skin. They all have significant functions: Ceramide 1 helps strengthen skin’s appearance. Ceramide 3 helps the skin hold essential moisture. Ceramide 6 helps exfoliate and retexturize. (International Journal of Cosmetic Science). Adding ceramides to the skin with a moisturizer (or a mask!) has also been shown to have results. In a 2002 study by dePaepe et. al, the strength of the skin — measured by its barrier repair function — was enhanced by the presence of ceramide 3, as well as a separate combination of ceramides and fatty acids.
Rice extract, also known as Oryza sativa extract, is an emollient, meaning that it moisturizes the skin by softening. The secret behind rice extract is a compound called Gamma orzanol. A potent antioxidant, Gamma orzanol is a free-radical scavenger. Rice extract may also help to improve the stability of oils and fatty acids already existing within the skin (International Journal of Pharmaceutics). That means that rice extract not only softens the skin as an emollient, but it also protects your natural oils and fatty acids within the skin, leading to even more hydration.
As for usage, I spoke with longtime fan Pamela Campbell, who says, “Bel Mondo Beauty Ultra Hydrating Facial Sheet Masks are great for travel, as your skin can get dehydrated. Bel Mondo Beauty Ultra Hydrating Facial Sheet Masks also are also beneficial when used between facials, as I use them in my practice, as they help to prolong the benefits, the plumpness, and the moisture in your skin. I like to use them before going somewhere special — makeup looks so much better!”
Definitely a must-have for dry winter skin!
Product Rating: 9/9 (High or optimized concentration of ingredients: 3/3. New technology or unique formulation: 3/3. Value: 3/3. Sunscreen: N/A).
Ingredients: Purified water, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, propylene glycol, sodium alginate, Dansonyl (plant extract), ceramide gel, chlorphenesin, Skinasensyl (acetyl tetrapeptide-15, sodium citrate), rice extract, Hydromanil (moisturizing compound derived from tara seed), olive oil, hyaluronic acid, biosol, panthenol, fragrance
2.) Best for Hands, Cuticles, and Dry Skin Patches: Avene Cicalfate
Avene Cicalfate ($21.23, Amazon.com) is a unique restorative skin cream formulated with zinc oxide, copper sulfate, and magnesium stearate/sulfate. Not a cream for oily skin types, Avene Cicalfate has ultra-hydrating mineral oil, glycerin, and hydrogenated vegetable oil, as well as propylene glycol to help it all drink into the skin.
Mineral oil has a bad reputation in skin care, but it is not well-deserved. According to Rebecca James Gadberry, chairman and co-CEO of YG Laboratories, mineral oil is not as offensive as many women believe. On a rating of zero-to-five, with five being highly pore-clogging, Gadberry says that mineral oil is only a one or two. What makes mineral oil get a bad rap is the way it works. According to the textbook Cosmetic Dermatology, mineral oil “functions by filling the spaces between [skin cells] to create a smooth surface.” When filling those spaces, mineral oil can trap other ingredients into the skin as well. If the other ingredients are pore-clogging, mineral oil can seem like the culprit, when it is in fact simply locking other ingredients against the skin.
However, in Avene Cicalfate, mineral oil should be fine.
Zinc oxide is normally included in skin care products simply as a sunscreen.
Yet zinc does far more than protect from the sun.
The skin contains about 6% of all the zinc in the body, according to Joy Bauer, MS, RD, CDN. In the skin, zinc is responsible for protecting cell membranes and maintaining skin’s collagen levels. Dr. Howard Murad further sings zinc’s praises in The Murad Method: “Zinc is truly a workhorse ingredient…It protects the skin from UV light and other irritants and infection from bacteria and fungi…enhances the effects of vitamins A and E, and soothes irritation.”
Zinc can help protect against redness, pustules, small blisters, crusting, and dryness, according to Dr. Audrey Kunin, dermatologist and founder of DERMADoctor.com.
When applied topically in a cream like Avene Cicalfate, zinc has been shown to have significant antioxidant activity (International Journal of Dermatology, 2002). According to the study, zinc may also protect your skin’s stores of iron and copper, indicating that it may play a role in healing.
Copper is another promising ingredient for skin healing, but you don’t see it much in skin care creams.
Although the exact mechanism of action is not known at this time, it is known that copper is vital for the function of a powerful natural antioxidant in your skin called superoxide dismutase. Copper is also essential for the cross-linking of collagen and elastin in your skin, suggesting copper may help promote skin rebuilding as it heals.
According to Pamela Campbell, the best uses for Avene Cicalfate are “anywhere the skin has minor discomfort. It can be used on abrasions and cuticles.” It’s definitely a welcome addition to your medicine cabinet!
Product Rating: 9/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3. Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3. Value: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
Ingredients: Avene Thermal Spring Water (avene Aqua), Caprylic/capric Triglyceride, Mineral Oil (paraffinum Liquidum), Glycerin, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Zinc Oxide, Propylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearat, Peg-22/dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Aluminum Sucrose Octasulphate, Aluminum Stearate, Beeswax (cera Alba), Copper Sulphate, Magnesium Stearate, Magnesium Sulphate, Microcrystalline Wax (cera Microcristallina), Zinc Sulphate.
3.) Best for Ultra-Dry Skin: Circadia Aquaporin ($45.02, Amazon.com)
If you’ve tried everything for dry winter skin and nothing has worked, give Circadia Aquaporin a try.
As a heavier moisturizer, Circadia Aquaporin features oils of avocado, olive, macademia nut, and seeds to provide a very rich, deeply hydrating experience.
Avocado oil is rich in skin-softening vitamin E. As an antioxidant, vitamin E can help to cut free radical damage, and to increase UV protection (Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology; The Role of Phytonutrients in Skin Health). As a hydrator, it has superior moisturizing capabilities, softening the skin as an emollient and locking in moisture as an occlusive agent.
Olive oil has been shown in many studies to have beneficial properties ranging from UV protective (Carcinogenesis, Toxicology) to anti-carcinogenic (The Lancet Oncology). Olive oil is comprised of many beneficial ingredients, including resveratrol, a natural protector of cellular activity; squalene, a natural hydrating agent; as well as three classes of distinct protective antioxidant polyphenols (simple phenols, secoridoids, and lignans).
Macademia nut oil has also been shown to contain high stores of vitamin E (Food Chemistry, 2003). Interestingly enough, macademia nut oil closely mimics natural skin sebum (African Journal of Biotechnology, 2004), making it a natural skin hydrator.
Of Circadia Aquaporin, Pamela Campbell stated, “Circadia Aquaporin really helps to increase the skin hydration. It’s like a heavier moisturizer perfect for the winter months.”
Product Rating: 9/10 Product Rating: 9/10 (High concentration of proven ingredients: 3/3. Unique formulation or new technology: 3/3. Value: 3/3. Sunscreen: 0/1).
Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetereth-20, Glycerin, Persea Gratissima (avocado) Oil, Olea Europaea (olive fruit) Oil, Lactamide, Stearyl Alcohol, bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG- 16/16 Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Palmitoyl Grape Seed Extract, Macadamia Ternifilia Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Piptadenia Colubrina Peel Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Persea Gratissima Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-37, Glycine Soja Protein, Benzyl Alcohol, Rincis Communis Seed Oil, Linalool, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Salvia Sclarea Oil, Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol
Bottom Line
For well-hydrated skin this January, try Bel Mondo Beauty Ultra Hydrating Facial Sheet Masks as a once-or-twice per week boosting treatment, Avene Cicalfate as an on-the-spot soothing treatment, and Circadia Aquaporin for the maximum in hydration!
Thanks again to Pamela Campbell for her support in this article.
Got a question? Write to me! Nicki[at]futurederm[dot]com.