Recently, a reader asked me to review Artistry ® Time Defiance ® skin care ($199.00, Quixtar.com). The company claims that the three-part skin care system is be able to “defy age beyond procedures.” If the claim sounds a little far-fetched, it is, for there is no way that the concentrations of active ingredients in this product could surpass that of dermatologist-administered peels, Botox, and other procedures. With that said, let’s evaluate the products!
Artistry Time Defiance Cleansing Treatment
The cleanser contains numerous hydrating ingredients and three main anti-aging ingredients: soybean extract, vitamin E, and ceramide 3. One isoflavone contained in soy is genistein, which has been shown in independent research studies to exhibit both anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and to stimulate the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in human fibroblasts cultured in vitro, which together increase the firmness, elasticity, and suppleness of skin. Unfortunately, soybean extract is found in low concentration in this cleanser.
Vitamin E as alpha tocopherol is a potent antioxidant that has been shown in 2006 studies by McDaniel et. al. to have a greater effect in reducing oxidative stress than kinetin, ubiquinone, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), and lipoic acid. Unfortunately, vitamin E, like soybean extract, is also found in low concentration in this cleanser.
A final anti-aging ingredient in the cleanser is Ceramide 3. According to Tony Vargas, Vice-President of Elizabeth Arden Research and Development, ceramide 3 increases skin’s hydration, helping the skin hold essential moisture. However, according to a 2000 study by dePaepe et. al., it was found that moisturizers incorporating ceramide 3 had no greater effect on transepidermal water loss (TEWL) than ordinary lotions without ceramide 3. However, even though ceramide 3 is in extremely low concentration in Time Defiance Cleansing Treatment, together with humectant glycerin, hydrating alcohols and sodium hyaluronate, the cleanser should in fact be hydrating.
Time Defiance Cleansing Treatment ingredients: Glycerin, Water/Eau, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycol Distearate, Citric Acid, Myristic Acid, Fragrance/Parfum, Methylparaben, Butylene Glycol, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Lauric Acid, Tea-Cocoyl Alaninate, Stearic Acid, Behenyl Alcohol, Sodium Pca, Urea, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Peg-8, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Polyquaternium-7, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey, Carbomer, Trehalose, Phenyl Trimethicone, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Polyquaternium-51, Isobutylparaben, Propylparaben, Panthenol, Proline, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Lecithin, Hydrolyzed Oats, Atelocollagen, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Tocopheryl Acetate, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Chitosan, Dextrin, Cyclodextrin, Sphingolipids, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Ceramide 3, Beta-Sitosterol
Artistry Time Defiance Day Protect Lotion with SPF 15
First, the good. The product contains hydrating humectant glycerin, hydrating alcohols and vitamin E in high concentration. Artistry Time Defiance Day Protect Lotion with SPF 15 also contains soybean extract and a plethora of other antioxidants as well (vitamin C as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, grapefruit seed extract, grapeseed extract, glutathione, superoxide dismutase, etc.) in fairly low concentration.
The unfortunate part is three-fold. First, the form of sunscreen in Artistry Time Defiance Day Protect Lotion with SPF 15 is avobenzone. Without a stabilizing ingredient like ecamsule (Mexoryl) or oxybenzone, avobenzone has been found in this study by Deflandre et. al. to be destroyed by 36% within 15 minutes of exposure to solar-simulated light. Second, for this amount of money, there is not a lot of anti-aging soybean extract. In fact, Neutrogena Anti-Oxidant Age Reverse Day Lotion SPF 20 ($16.75, Drugstore.com) contains a much higher concentration of soybean extract, a more stable form of sunscreen, and costs about 1/4 as much. That brings on my last point – if you are spending over this much for a day moisturizer, there are more potent antioxidant options for the money. For instance, green tea, a proven antioxidant, is found in TOPIX Replenix Serum ($46.25, 4Derm.com), in a form with 90% active polyphenols. Another potent antioxidant, CoffeeBerry, which has been found to have the highest oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) score of any antioxidant currently on the market, is available in the RevaléSkin Line ($207.00, PrSkinCare.com).
Time Defiance Day Protect Lotion with SPF 15: Active Ingredients/Ingrédients Actifs : Avobenzone 3.0% W/W P/P, Octinoxate 7.5% W/W P/P Other/Non Medicinal Ingredients: Water/Eau, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Peg-33, Phenoxyethanol, Behenyl Alcohol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Peg-8 Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Squalane, Peg- 14, Arachidyl Glucoside, Fragrance/Parfum, Ppg-15 Stearyl Ether Benzoate, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Methylparaben, Polysorbate 60, Panthenol, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Extract,Tocopherol, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Disodium Edta, Bioflavonoids, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Phospholipids, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract, Glutathione, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Proline, Superoxide Dismutase, Lecithin, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Palmitoyl Hydroxpropyltrimonium, Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide 3, Beta-Sitosterol
Artistry Time Defiance Night Recovery Lotion
Artistry Time Defiance Night Recovery Lotion is similar to the Day Protect Lotion, sans SPF and with a slightly higher concentration of soybean extract (yes!) and less vitamin E (no!) and the additional antioxidant ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10). Ubiquinone levels have been documented to decrease upon skin UV irradiation in the journal Free Radical Biology and Medicine, so it is a beneficial in a night cream as an antioxidant.
Time Defiance Night Recovery Lotion: Water/Eau, C12-15 Alkyl Ethylhexanoate, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Butylene Glycol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Peg-33, Phenoxyethanol, Behenyl Alcohol, Peg-8 Dimethicone, Squalane, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Peg- 14, Arachidyl Glucoside, Fragrance/Parfum, Polysorbate 60, Methylparaben, Panthenol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Disodium Edta, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Tocopherol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Phospholipids, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Ubiquinone, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Glutathione, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Lecithin, Isobutylparaben, Propylparaben, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Bioflavonoids, Proline, Superoxide Dismutase, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract, Palmitoyl Hydroxpropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide 3, Beta-Sitosterol
Overall opinions of the Time Defiance Age Defying Skin Care System
Overall, this is a very hydrating skin care system with soy extract and numerous other antioxidants. Unfortunately, there are moisturizers with higher concentrations of soy extract available for far less money, and antioxidant treatments with higher concentrations of antioxidants and more potent antioxidants available as well. As such, it is unlikely that the product line will “defy age beyond procedures”. Product rating: 6.5/10 (hydrating with soy extract and antioxidants, but rather expensive, especially for the concentrations of soy extract and antioxidants).