I don’t know about you, but I really love peptides. Peptides have been demonstrated to have activity attributable to everything from skin-firming to wrinkle-fighting to skin-smoothing, and these benefits only increase as more research is done. Peptides perform many functions and it is commonly theorized that some peptides are signaling within the skin to elicit effects.
Patented by Helix BioMedix Inc., palmitoyl hexapeptide-14 is a relatively new and rare compound in skin care and cosmetics. Designed to mimic an innate immunity peptide, palmitoyl hexapeptide-14 has been shown in preliminary studies to stimulate cell migration, collagen synthesis, and fibroblast proliferation and scaffolding (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2009).
What does this mean for your skin?  It is proposed that palmitoyl hexapeptide-14 is gentle, non-irritating and may increase collagen production, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and even skin tone. Preliminary studies show that it may have efficacy similar to prescription Renova, though the sample size was small:
A 12-week split-face, double-blind study comparing the efficacy of a palmitoyl hexapeptide-14 gel with Renova® cream 0.05% in the correction of fine lines and wrinkles. Renova® cream is PDA approved for use in the mitigation of fine facial wrinkles.
Results:
All of the five investigators rated the peptide equal to or more effective than Renova® cream in regard to therapy for fine lines and wrinkles of the periorbital region.”  According to Helix BioMedix, Inc., the data is on my file for this particular study.
My Favorite Product with Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14: Apothederm Firming Serum
One product I absolutely love with palmitoyl hexapeptide-14 is Apothederm Firming Serum ($75.00, FutureDerm.com/Shop).
What Apothederm Says
Apothederm Firming Serum is formulated with powerful botanicals and other advanced ingredients to help refine skin. We have added two of our exclusive patented SmartPeptides® to help firm skin and reduce the signs of aging.
Benefits
- Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- Firms and tightens
- Moisturizes and hydrates
- Brightens and refines skin texture for a more even and luminous complexion
– See more at: http://apothederm.com/shop-products/anti-aging/firming-serum/#sthash.K49HSUDf.dpuf
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 & Heptapeptide-7Â
These SmartPeptides work together deep to stimulate the skin’s own natural repair and regeneration systems. Tests have shown that these peptides boost collagen production and promote keratinocyte proliferation and migration, thereby reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while also increasing firmness of the skin.
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 is a gentle and non-irritating natural bioactive SmartPeptide shown to stimulate fibroblasts, increase collagen production, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and even skin tone. Heptapeptide-7 is shown to support skin structure, and promote keratinocyte proliferation and migration to fill in lines and wrinkles and reduce their appearance.
Glycerin
This humectant relieves dehydration by drawing essential moisture into the skin.
Trehalose
This naturally occurring saccharide protects the skin from dehydration and helps to restore its natural moisture balance.
Thermus Ferment
This inhibits damage from reactive oxygen species, protects natural defense enzymes, shields skin from UV damage, and restores barrier lipids.
Palmaria Palmata
This brightens the skin for a more luminous complexion.
All Ingredients
Water, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Trehalose, Heptapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14, Glycerin, Phospholipids, Thermus Ferment, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Sodium Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acrylates/ Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Disodium EDTA, Potassium Sorbate.
FutureDerm Review and Ingredient Analysis
Though the research is limited, palmitoyl hexapeptide-14 shows great promise in skin care.
Apothederm Firming Serum has a lightweight formulation that feels cooling and non-greasy on the skin.  The serum spreads evenly and smoothly, and a little goes a long way: two squirts was enough for my face, neck, and decolletage. It was slightly hydrating on my normal skin, and the hydration is enough for those with normal to oily skin to forego moisturizer, whereas those with normal to oily dry skin may still wish to apply a moisturizer over top. The consistency is light-medium in weight, slightly creamy for a serum, with glycerin (a natural humectant) drawing in moisture from the environment.
Apothederm Firming Serum would be great after a concentrated retinoid or alpha hydroxy acid treatment. This would grant the benefits of peptides, without overloading the skin with a thick, heavy moisturizer.
For peptides like palmitoyl hexapeptide-14 to demonstrate full efficacy, I recommend using the product religiously, at least once per day, for 30 consecutive days. This is because the skin cell life cycle is about 21 days. In order to demonstrate effects that may occur from stimulated collagen production, it is essential to use for at least this long to see results.
Bottom Line
Palmitoyl hexapeptide-14 is definitely an “ingredient to watch” in skin care for fine lines and wrinkles, uneven skin, and sagging skin. Patented by Helix BioMedix, Inc., it is still limited in where you can find it, but I recommend it in Apothederm Firming Serum.