In the past seven-plus years, I’ve gotten the opportunity to interview some of the best dermatologists in the country. I’ve had great experiences (Dr. Leslie Baumann, M.D. has been a longtime role model), I’ve had not-so-great experiences (note to self: never, ever be an hour late when meeting with a derm!), and everywhere in-between.
Here are the best insights I’ve gotten thus far:
1.) Keep it simple.
“Sunscreen [with an] SPF of at least 30 every morning is a must, as is a healthy lifestyle with natural food, pure water, exercise, stress reduction, and good sleep.” –Dr. Jeanette Jacknin, M.D.
“First and foremost, as a dermatologist, I have to say sunscreen or sun protection. After that, keep in mind that the skin is the largest organ of the body. What is good for your health is good for your skin! With that said, eat a healthy but balanced diet. If you smoke, try to quit. Try to minimize or reduce stress. And get enough sleep.” –Dr. David E. Bank, M.D.
2.) Be careful what you combine together in a regimen.
“You have to […] be careful not to use a product that has ingredients that can render the active ingredient useless, Vitamin C (L – Ascorbic Acid), glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and kojic acid can break down retinols/retinoids and vitamin C.” –Dr. Leslie Baumann, M.D.
3.) If you can afford only one dermatological procedure…
“Botox.” –Dr. Jeffrey Benabio, M.D.
“I almost always recommend a light chemical peel – usually with glycolic acid to deliver immediate results for glowing, fresher-looking skin.” Dr. Jeannette Graf, M.D.
4.) They don’t like it when you “WebMD” your skin.
“There is so much misinformation and hype everywhere out there. People run every week to the “Cream of the Week.” The benefit of the higher calling is to give good evidential information to tell what is real and what is a lie; to help the consumer. It is so overwhelming, and there is also so much politics involved in some of the ingredients. Unfortunately a lot of misinformation goes the wrong way.” –Dr. Kathy Fields, M.D.
5.) …but they do like FutureDerm.
“Reading blogs such as FutureDerm.com provides an important educational forum for readers to help them gain more insight into the effectiveness of skin care products based on science, as well as their proper use.” –Dr. Jeannette Graf, M.D.
“No matter where you are in your career, you should be reading current, relevant materials from academic journals to websites [like FutureDerm]. I don’t ever intend to stop being an active learner.”-Dr. Jeffrey Benabio, M.D.
6.) Sulfates are bad.
“Sulfates can strip the important lipids skin needs, so finding a great cleanser without sulfates is beneficial.” –Dr. Leslie Baumann, M.D.
7.) Parabens are good.
“By the way, you see parabens all over the place. Did you know you just ate a spoonful of parabens?” –Dr. Kathy Fields, M.D.
“The consequences of excluding parabens can be far worse [than not using them]. If we do not include parabens in formulations the resulting overgrowth of bacteria, fungi and parasites can be far more dangerous. If any of these pathogens are applied to the skin and we do not have the appropriate probiotics and microflora in our own skin needed to neutralize them, the possibility of developing severe skin infections is much greater.” –Dr. Jeannette Graf, M.D.
8.) High SPF sunscreens = also good.
““Does SPF 50 or higher make your skin more sensitive? No, absolutely not. It’s actually the contrary and no protection over time will make your skin more sensitive. Additionally, if you’re allergic, use a sunscreen that is hypoallergenic.” –Dr. Jeanine Downie, M.D.
9.) Their approach to skin care can be different.
““The greatest difficulty [in starting a skin care business] was convincing dermatologists and plastic surgeons of the importance of going to the cellular level in skin treatment. As a physician, we were taught to treat only the surface of the skin and because of that our results were limited. […] I also encountered a lot of resistance from physicians who didn’t want to treat different skin types and ethnicities. Sometimes it’s difficult to change old attitudes and opinions.” –Dr. Zein Obagi, M.D.
“I believe it’s the best way you can care for your skin in regards to your skin type. I typed each and every product according to The Baumann Skin Typing system as well as sub typed for each sensitivity . Once you take the questionnaire, have your skin type, then the store works for you. We are licensing the skin typing system to several stores. It is important to know that it took years to validate the questionnaire and the skin typing system is patented. Other copies have not undergone the rigorous testing.” Dr. Leslie Baumann, M.D.
10.) They often differ in their go-to advice for acne as well.
“If you have stubborn pimples and a scaly red skin on your face and upper body, try a medicated cleanser with 2% pyrithione zinc. You may have a yeast germ called Pityrosporum, which lives in our pores from the waist up. A little of this yeast is normal, but a lot causes skin problems including some forms of acne and seborrhea. On skin exams, I often see these issues in patients who have no idea that their skin problems all boil down to one little germ. Control the germ and we control the problem skin. I often recommend soaps, shampoos and cleansers with this ingredient for routine skin care of the face, scalp, back and chest.” –Dr. Cynthia Bailey, M.D.
“One of the most surprising facts about acne is that it is a chronic disease. It’s not like a cavity. Teenagers have the honor of acne for seven years. Then, some patients in their 20s and 30s have acne again, and this kind of acne lasts 20 years. When your skin is clear, this means that the medicine is working. However, if your hormones are still pumping out the factors that are producing acne, so long as you are using Pro-Activ, it is suppressing those factors. You must keep using it. Some people find their skin stays clear if they use it every other day. It’s a trial-and-error process.” —Dr. Kathy Fields, M.D. (co-creator of ProActiv)
11.) There are some conditions you must see a dermatologist for.
Interestingly enough, what I’ve learned most from interviewing scores of dermatologists over the years is that you absolutely need a dermatologist for conditions like psoriasis, eczema, rosacea, and severe cystic or pustular acne. The closer a skin disorder comes to a disease, the more you need regular access to a dermatologist. And it makes sense — the diseased state of skin is taught thoroughly in medical school and dermatological residency, and there are textbook recommendations and treatments for these ailments.
On the other hand, when it comes to over-the-counter skin care treatments and ingredients, dermatologists may differ in their approach and recommendations. While many can agree on basics like retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids, and salicylic acid, other ingredients like hyaluronic acid, peptides, and oxygen can lead two well-esteemed dermatologists to be on opposite sides of the fence. (For instance, Dr. Leslie Baumann says from her research that these do not work, whereas other derms actually include some or all of them in their skin care lines.)
This also makes sense, though — skin care and over-the-counter treatments are not taught as a part of the core curriculum in most medical schools or dermatological residencies. Some dermatologists later take their own skin care approaches from consulting with chemists, industry, or their own research. What’s more, the examinations that dermatologists regularly undergo to get re-licensed often times do not include the latest over-the-counter skin care ingredients or technologies.
If you think you are suffering from a skin care ailment, disease, or disorder, or have a skin issue you cannot resolve on your own, I suggest you book an appointment to see a derm immediately, or use a teledermatology service like Dermatologist On Call. For just $59, you will receive a treatment plan and diagnosis catered towards your condition within 3 days, and will have unlimited access to a board-certified dermatologist for up to 30 days. Dermatologist On Call is a brilliant, modern way to get quality care for your skin, hair, and nails super fast!
This “Best Advice from Dermatologists” post is brought to you from FutureDerm and Dermatologist On Call. The dermatologists cited in this article were interviewed for FutureDerm and are not affiliated with Dermatologist On Call.