A dual cleanse, or an oil-based cleanse followed by a foam, is all the rage right now. On the heels of the “wipe-and-call-it-a-night” trend, this cleanse takes the opposite route, with two full time-consuming steps. The dual cleanse consists of a skin care oil, similar to a makeup remover, that is applied to the face and rinsed or toweled off. The second step consists of a cleansing foam, which then removes remaining debris. The dual cleanse trend is founded on the chemistry theory that “like dissolves like,” or that oil-based makeup ingredients will only dissolve in oil, whereas only water-based makeup ingredients will dissolve in water. It has been popular in Japan for decades.
Most Standard Cleansers are, in Fact, Already a Dual Cleanse
Unfortunately, though “like dissolves like,” most cleansers are not a pure oil or water-based cleanser. Instead, most cleansers contain both as either water-in-oil emulsions, or oil-in-water emulsions.
A popular water-in-oil emulsion cleanser is Eve Lom Cream, or any other cold cream where water is delicately captured inside oil. These cleansers are best for dry or mature skin types. Water-in-oil emulsions are comprised of tiny droplets of water dispersed in oil. They provide a thicker barrier, which is great for dry skin types. The oil is on the outside of each molecule, surrounding each molecule, so when the cleanser hits your skin, the oil is felt first.
A great example of a oil-in-water emulsion cleanser is NEOVA Antioxidant Cleansing Milk, or any other cleansing milk where a few droplets of oil are encapsulated within surrounding water molecules. These cleansers are best for oily, acne-prone, or normal skin types. Oil-in-water emulsions are tiny droplets of oil dispersed in water with the help of an additional emulsifying agent. The water is on the outside of each molecule, surrounded by water, so this means oil-in-water emulsions vanish quickly into the skin.
…So A Dual Cleanse is Not Really Necessary
As explained above, most cleansers have both oil and water-based properties. Though it may seem to make sense to the layman, you don’t really need a separate oil-based makeup remover followed by a water-based foaming cleanser.
Dual cleanses may even be a waste of time and money. It is unlikely that the oil phase will have much effect, because it does not have proper time to penetrate the skin before the foam is applied and rinsed off.
If you do want to try a dual cleanse anyway, it will not harm your skin. My favorite dual cleanse is the  AmorePacific Treatment Cleansing Foam ($50, amazon.com) and Oil ($89.95, amazon.com).  It’s a gentle cleanser in line with the traditional Asian method of facial cleansing, without the harsh detergent-like ingredients that can irritate sensitive skin. AmorePacific Treatment Cleansing Foam and Oil feel great, rinse away smoothly, and contain emollient antioxidants olive oil and vitamin E.
The truth of the matter is, AmorePacific Treatment Cleansing Foam (and Cleansing Oil) are excellent products if you feel compelled to try a dual cleanse, but you don’t need to do one.