I get asked a lot why Korean skin care products are the best.
Truthfully, Korean skin care products are not necessarily the best. It is true that Korean skin care has higher demand and less regulation in South Korea than skin care in the United States does. That combination of high demand and looser regulation means that innovation in Korean skin care tends to be high; ingredients like topical hyaluronic acid, peptides, BB creams, and topical gel skin care masks were huge in Korea before they made it stateside.
However, not all Korean skin care products are better. As largely unfounded concerns about ingredients travel from western societies eastward, I’m seeing less fascinating technologies being developed to target specific areas or receptors within skin and more boring plant extracts being infused into Korean products. That said, there are a few natural agents popping up in new Korean skin care products I am excited about:
Best Ingredient in Korean Skin Care #1: Skin-Firming Camellia
Thanks to Victoria Beckham’s post-baby body secret, Camellia japonica seed oil is known to prevent stretch marks. Researchers in a 2007 study in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology tested the effects ofCamellia japonica on human type 1 collagen production and skin barrier function.
[Related: Victoria Beckham’s Post-Baby Body Secret (and Yes, It Works)]
In the study, camellia oil stimulated collagen production by activating the COL1A2 promoter, starting production of type 1 collagen. Like vitamin E, camellia oil inhibits metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 decreasing the breakdown of collagen. The study also indicated that the skin treated with the oil had less transepidermal water loss (TEWL) than skin that was not treated.
Best Ingredients in Korean Skin Care #2: Bee-Derived Propolis, Honey, and Beeswax
Propolis is the “glue” that honeybees use to seal in their hive. Sometimes referred to as “God’s Teardrop” in Korea due to its strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, propolis gives fatigued skin a glow.
Beeswax is a wax ester that has occlusive properties (Skin Therapy Letters). It’s also a gelling agent, film former, plasticizer, and barrier agent (Koster Keunen). Essentially, it’s a natural ingredient that works well to give formulas the right consistency and coats the skin to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in the same way that ingredients like petrolatum do. Beeswax has a slight antioxidant effect, likely due to minor ingredients or propolis, but it’s primarily used because it creates a thin, non-allergenic, protective layer over skin (NC State University).
Best Ingredients in Korean Skin Care #3: Clay
Clays are often used in skin care because they’re full of minerals. This pale green clay, also called French clay because of its origins, comes from recently deposited deep-sea sediments (Fangotherapy Fun). Originally, it was mined in France and sun dried, but the clay is now found just about everywhere (just because it says “French” clay doesn’t mean its from France). It has fine granules and a smooth feeling when wet. On study found it to have antibiotic properties that could work against a host of bacteria including E. coli and MRSA (Journal of Antimicrobial Chemotherapy).
Other studies have found this and also that illite clay increases the body’s ability to heal after exposure bacteria (The Clay Minerals Society). And it helps your skin in other ways. One study found that illite clay increased Tyrosinase, which acts as a melanin-inhibitor (Current Mincrobiology).
Best Korean Skin Care Product #1: Shara Shara Honey Bomb All-in-One Ampoule
If you’re interested in the effects of propolis, honey, and beeswax, look no further than the Shara Shara Honey Bomb All-in-One Ampoule. Infused with manuka, royal jelly, and propolis, this convenient ampoule servces as a toner, moisturizer, and serum to even out skin tone and create a youthful “glow.” I especially love this product for tired, worn-out skin.
As for when to use it, I would say morning and night, after cleansing. If you use a skin care essence, apply the essence first, and then the ampoule. Follow with serum and moisturizer if desired.
Best Korean Skin Care Product #2: Lindsay Modeling Rubber Mask
If you’re interested in the antioxidant, skin-clearing, and antibacterial properties of clay, look no further than Lindsay Modeling Rubber Mask. This mask is made from alginate, which conforms to the shape of your face, but withstands the elements better than traditional masks, preventing any evaporation of the ingredients.
Best Korean Skin Care Product #3: Whamisa Organic Flowers Water Cream
The collagen-stimulating properties of Camellia flowers become evident after regular use of the Whamisa Organic Flowers Water Cream. This cream contains antioxidants and features anti-aging properties such as skin soothing and skin smoothing. I like using it after cleansing, an essence or a toner, and after a serum.
Bottom Line
Korean skin care technologies have slowed since western influence has caused natural extracts and herbs to become more popular. That said, there are a few natural extracts and herbs in Korean skin care, such as bee-derived propolis, honey, beeswax, clay, and Camellia flower that demonstrate significant effects for skin in peer-reviewed studies. So while I’m not as excited about Korean skin care technologies as I was ten years ago, I am excited about these ingredients, and happy to recommend the Shara Shara Honey Bomb All-in-One Ampoule, Lindsay Modeling Rubber Mask, and Whamisa Organic Flowers Water Cream to my readers!